We went exploring in East Looe this week. Away from the centre of town, away from the tourist spots. 5 miles of walking. All hill.
My goodness we gave our quads and calves a workout. Sloping roads and long flights of steps. Stopping for a chat with a woman coming down as an excuse for a breather. It made the challenge of our own steep road a mere sprint in comparison to this marathon.
Oh, but the views.
Being on the opposite side of the river was like being on the other side of a mirror. We played I Can See Our House From Here, one of Mr M’s favourite games when we’re out, as West Looe Hill became our view with the sea behind it.
Most of our walk was residential. Good if you like architecture or if you’re nosy! If you’re a writer, you can call it research! More holiday homes on the lower levels, then lots of upside down houses clinging higher up the hillside, with main entrances on their top floors. Narrow roads that would challenge many a car and driver, as well nips and opes crisscrossing the hill: narrow lanes between properties that in London I would have previously called alleys or snicketways. When we emerged from the final one of these near the top, the roads became much more estate like, less Cornish and more generic in style.
At the summit, we knew if we turned left we would come to a parade of shops where, you can find one of the best chip shops in Looe, Ben’s Plaice, and the relatively new but fabulous Barbican Pizza. Keep going and you’ll come to the secondary school and the local football club, before you eventually reach the main parish church of St Martin’s on the corner of the road leaving Looe.
But we went right, stopping at the well stocked Spar for a much needed drink, then to the Wooldown, an area of open land edged by the South West Coastal Path and with fabulous views across Looe Bay. It’s not a park but a preserved piece of Cornish countryside within the town and is protected as such. So what you get are fields with hedgerows, havens for flora and fauna.
We sat on a bench with our drinks watching Looe Island disappear under the approaching sea fret and saw Hannafore Beach from a new angle. I wondered if this is what it might feel like to be a drone. Then we made our way down a track marked only by a line of flattened grass to a stepped footpath and onto the Coastal Path.
We were back on familiar ground now, having walked this section several times in the past. The path turns to tarmac, walls lined with benches overlooking East Looe Beach. About once a year, someone drives up here and onto the track, ignoring the signs, before abandoning their car and blocking everyone’s way after realising their error and deciding they can’t reverse back.
We ended our walk with lunch at Daisy’s Café, just up from the main shopping area back in the centre of town. I had a sandwich and salad garnish big enough to constitute a full dinner. The lovely Mr M had one of the best vegetable pasties in Looe, freshly baked.
Even though we continued to ache for some days after, I’m really glad we did this walk. It was good to get to know our town better, and make some connections about where different parts are in relation to each other. To get a better feel for Looe as town in its own right and not just the tourist destination that it is. It made me realise how many people live here.
Next time, we’re going to explore more of West Looe: the streets our own house overlooks, up to the Downs, maybe the cemetery. And if our knees are up to it, we’ll see if we can manage Chapel Steps. (And if you want know why I put it that way you can get an idea of them here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_ofXnLQLHg) .
Here’s to exploring the places we live. And finding out more about them. Understanding, learning and putting down roots.